NATIONAL DISH

An award-winning food journalist searches for the connection between a nation’s people and what they eat.

Is it food that defines the culture or the culture that defines the food? Von Bremzen—a three-time James Beard Award winner and author of the memoir, Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking, as well as multiple cookbooks—wonders if there can still be national dishes in the age of globalization and convenience foods. In her travels around the world, she has found plenty of evidence of distinctiveness, and she demonstrates how the idea of the national dish is often opposed by aggressive regionalism. She strolls through the back streets of Naples looking for the origins of pizza and pasta, and she discusses the connection between religion and tapas in Seville. Her vivid narrative is packed with intriguing characters, and in some countries, conversations about the food can be as important as the dish itself. The author finds much to admire about Oaxacan cuisine, and although Mexican dishes are often seen as bold and spicy, she is particularly impressed by the subtlety of atole (“a pre-Hispanic maize drink”) and the mysterious rituals attached to it. She finds street food more authentic than Michelin-star fanciness, a point that is made clear with her explorations of rice and ramen in Japan. Paris proves to be a disappointment, apparently stuck in a cul-de-sac of nostalgia and factionalism. There is still plenty of good food in the City of Lights, but it seems to have lost its luster. Von Bremzen obviously enjoys these cross-cultural discussions and disputes, although she does not really find answers to the questions she initially asked. Eventually, her travels bring her back to the U.S. and, ironically, to the Slavic dishes she grew up with.

In this piquant platter of a book, von Bremzen tackles questions of culture, history, and the meaning of a good meal.