It is hard to see what purpose this large and expensive volume accomplishes, except to fill up any remaining spots on the coffee table. It consists of two works (""Summer"" and ""Winter"") bound perpendicularly to each other, which presents librarians with a Solomon-like decision. Each ""cookbook"" contains 28 essays, or rather glorified ladies'-magazine articles (""The goodness of grains,"" ""Shellfish--naturally,"" ""Fresh from the dairy""), each facing one of Tessa Trager's photographs, which represent the art of food photography at its most perversely whimsical. Each set of essays is followed by a selection of supposedly seasonal recipes on tinted paper, the total effect being reminiscent of a particularly garish spumoni. Boxer has nothing much to say about food that hasn't been said better by someone else. The recipes are mostly not bad, but display no special individuality or distinction.