No tears, no fuss, and nothing here about Hollywood's Gotterdammerung will come as any surprise. The good times are gone and, with a few exceptions, the old-timers interviewed seem to share the view of director Lewis Milestone (All Quiet on the Western Front) that ""all we have out here is a past; the town's got no future. And God knows it hasn't much present."" But Arthur Lewis happily visits here and there, chatting with a handful of directors, press agents, front office men, a porn film czar, and oldsters at a rest home, including gorgeous Betty Blythe (Queen of Sheba) and comedian Charles Conklin from the silents. And then there are the ""stars"" who predictably come on with whatever makes a legend. ""They've always been crazy about me in Philly,"" says Mae; ""If there's anything I hate it's a goddamned phoney,"" breathes Stanwyck; and ""This is a great country"" proclaims Big John. Among the others sought out and visited: Blondell, Ayres, Lana Turner, Sylvia Sidney and of course Zsa Zsa (""Save your pennies and when you get 75,000. . . take me to dinner""). You won't learn much but you'll like Lewis' star-struck enjoyment.