A collection of recipes originating in Italy's various provinces but the bulk of which came from cooks in and around New...

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ITALIAN PROVINCIAL COOKERY

A collection of recipes originating in Italy's various provinces but the bulk of which came from cooks in and around New England. The book is the result of Mendelsohn (a writer and food historian) meeting Lazzaro, an Italian cook in the Boston area. Lotte wrote while Bea and some friends talked about Italian cooking and contributed recipes. The final product contains some good information on Italian tradition, basic tips and recipes for pasta and sauces, and a diverse selection of regional dishes. From the Piedmont come such offerings as Chestnut ""Stew,"" Green Frog's Legs, and a Hazelnut Torte; from Umbria, a Spicy Lamb and Veal Perugian-style; from Abruzzi, Lentil Soup and Charcoal Broiled Trout; and from Sicily, a Sausage Broccoli Pie and Marinated Squid. Pastas are, of course, specialities in all regions; among those presented here are Ravioli Genoa Style, Spaghetti Puttanesca from Campania, Pasta with Tomatoes and Ricotta from Apulia, and Veal and Egg Noodles from Trentino. While the recipes warrant praise for their heartiness and simplicity, the prose tends toward ebullience, with Mendelsohn waxing poetic about her subject at every turn. The so-called ""chats"" with Bea and other contributors just confuse things. Instructions are straightforward but not detailed (fortunately, not necessary for most of the recipes). Prefacing each chapter is a list of the regional wines, cheeses, and pasta, and a note about which ones are available in the United States. In sum: appealing, down-to-earth Italian dishes for cooks of all levels of ability.

Pub Date: Feb. 4, 1986

ISBN: N/A

Page Count: -

Publisher: Yankee

Review Posted Online: N/A

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Jan. 15, 1986

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