By way of reassurance Ms. Ivens tells you that all those fancy pates, terrines and galatines sold in the little French charcuterie are nothing but glorified meat loaves. And even though they do require lengthy preparation and a brick to weigh them down you'll find the results worth the effort -- they bear very little resemblance to those mundane dishes made with ground chuck and Heinz' tomato sauce. She offers 50+ recipes for such party stoppers as veal and pork loaf in aspic with pistachio nuts and black olives, turkey and ham loaf with sherry and a Norwegian fiskepudding which blends cod with cream and nutmeg. Madeira, cognac and sherry are used liberally with the meat mixtures which include pork, ham, veal, beef, bacon, liver, etc. With suggestions for accompanying wines and side dishes, they will make a sophisticated and satiating centerpiece for any late night supper, buffet or for that very special picnic a deux.