Been noticing Gallo Hearty Burgundy on the spiffiest dining tables lately? Just a touch of reverse snobbery but mainly it's economic necessity that's making crus classes somewhat declasse and crus bourgeois definitely swankier -- a condition Waugh, a trustworthy o1' winetaster (Bacchus on the Wing, Pick of the Bunch) blames on the outrageous prices French greed is exploiting. Of 5000 vineyards in Bordeaux less than 200 constitute classified growth and it doesn't take much arithmetic to figure what's left to be explored among the small lesser known less expensive producers of crus bourgeois which Waugh tastes ""from the wood"" to predict the best buys coming into the marketplace within the next few years. Still, wine lovers can't seem to win for losing. Much of this wine is available only in the smallest quantities; one particularly fine California Pinot Noir for example is limited to 25 cases, barely enough to wet anyone's whistle.
Pub Date: Jan. 1, 1973
Page Count: -
Publisher: Quadrangle--The New York Times Book Co.