What good is the most de luxe cookbook if you're trying to whip up that torte in a cracked plastic bowl and make your stocks in a tinny-tasting pot? Leave it to James Beard to collect a guide to the best in kitchen equipment, chosen on the basis of efficiency, design, materials, cost (sometimes), and aesthetics. A sampling: knives and sharpeners, casseroles and pots, measuring and cleaning utensils. Everything from a Fahrenheit/centigrade oven thermometer, a carbon-steel chef's knife from France, several kinds of mortar and pestle, a nutmeg grater to bean pots, terrines and much, much more.