Timing has finally worked in my favor,"" begins San Francisco food columnist, restauranteur (Square One), and former cooking teacher Goldstein. But it has probably worked even better for the several who have come before her with their splendid selections from ""the full-flavored sensual food of the Mediterranean"" (e.g., Martha Rose Shulman's Mediterranean Light, p. 540)--especially as Goldstein's relatively free adaptations don't pretend to add to culinary scholarship. In any case, there are some satisfying finds here, some as simple as a baked cod with onions and mint from the Italian province of Friuli; and elsewhere Goldstein's mixings, matchings, and additions of sauces, marinades, and dressings are disarming. Even her eternal grilling--fish, fowl, and even the vegetables for ratatouille--can improve on tradition. Timing aside, then, an alluring addition.