Lo is at times willing to depart from traditional ingredients -- butter, milk and cream are used to advantage -- but he is adamant about cutting, heating and flavoring. Chinese cuisine, after all, achieves its finesse and variety by ""the exploitation of subtleties."" Broccoli stir-fried in peanut oil impregnated with ginger and garlic is quite different in texture and taste from broccoli hot marinaded before stir-frying. Almost every Western vegetable, asparagus to zucchini, is here prepared by steaming, deep-frying, batter-frying or hot marinading -- usually in combination. Additional chapters are devoted to rice, eggs and bean curd, often mixed with vegetables, and, for non-vegetarians, chicken and meat additions are easily made. Lo assures us that it's as easy as riding a bicycle once you get the knack of it but even without the lily-bud stems which keep reappearing this is for the serious cook not the amateur.