After years of foreign, regional, cross-cultural, healthful, nouvelle, and light cuisine, the time might be ripe for a backlash--and the fact that more than half of these recipes center on red meat confirms that retro message of this collection's title. But the Scotts' interpretation of ""meat and potatoes"" is literal--not a metaphor for conventional, no-nonsense American dinner but a roundup of separate meat recipes and potatoe recipes, mostly American or European in origin. Though the health-conscious might prefer to see a warning label on the cover, it's a workmanlike collection, aimed at those whose hunger is best satisfied by a thick slab of beef--or, in a pinch, a carrÉ de porc fumÉ à la mandarin.