Ambitious in scope--more than 700 recipes--but lacking the commentary on technique, the elegance and sophistication of Maida Heatter's Book of Great Desserts. The recipes include plain and fancy, hot and cold, old-fashioned and newfangled, famous (Ratner's marble cheese cake) and classic, plus token nods to fresh fruit or fruit and cheese and special sections on puffy low-calorie desserts and children's party fare. The numbered directions are adequate--standard magazine enumeration--with minimal culinary notations. Encyclopedic but otherwise unexceptional.