Roberts, executive chef at Trumps restaurant in LA., presents recipes for the dishes he likes to cook at home. His repertoire--as eclectic as that of most contemporary chefs--has a homey, nostalgic base and a tendency to stuff the flesh course, whether it be whole birds, chicken breasts, veal, salmon, or prawns. Chapters cover hot and cold dinners; updates of his Jewish grandmothers' old-country dishes and of lowbrow 50's fare (e.g., tuna-noodle casserole); stolid meatless meals and ""politically correct"" grain-and-bean dishes still tainted with sausages or other meats; quick meals (several of them based on scallops) and company meals that turn out to he mostly roasts and no fancier than his others; and his versions of less familiar French and Italian and less authentic Mexican and Asian dishes. (These last, Roberts promises, ""don't depend on trips to Chinatown"" for ingredients.) Complete with advice and historical/cultural chat more predictable than the recipes--unexceptional fare that's well positioned to meet the current mood for cosmopolitan comfort food.