When not in-- you still can, and these dishes have a truly ancient history which goes back to the days of Tiberius when they were recorded by Apicus. Redolently they endure, in iron pots over charcoal stoves, and Mr. Lenard will help you reproduce them at home. There is a good deal of peripheral commentary of a pleasant nature so that this is for the cultivated gastronome who will corroborate the remark once made that ""cookbooks are not Just for cooking."" There is also a glossary of terms, list of recommended restaurants in Rome, tables of weights and measures, and 40 line drawings by the author. A special item.