TO FALL IN LOVE, DRINK THIS

A wine writer’s happy discoveries.

In 2001, Feiring published a piece in the New York Times business section that launched her on an unexpected career as a wine writer. The article, exposing technology in the wine industry, led her to become an advocate of natural wines, grown organically, with none of more than 72 legally allowed additives. In her zesty memoir recounting her transformation into a wine expert, the author writes about growing up in an observant Jewish family on Long Island, with little experience drinking anything but kosher wines. Her adventurous course of self-education involved journeys around the world and has resulted in a plethora of detailed wine recommendations. “I spent time in vineyards,” she recalls, “I learned about viticulture and chemistry. My world exploded with travel and discovery. It was wild, energetic, and idealistic.” Feiring creates warm portraits of wine growers and producers, steeps readers in the terroir of different regions, and, with great delight, sings the praises of natural wines from Chile and Vermont, Czechoslovakia and California, Italy and the republic of Georgia. “No matter where I am,” she writes, “when I taste a wine that moves me, I feel the imperative to follow the thread to its origin, and that’s when I know I’ve got something special.” Her descriptions swirl rapturously: A French Syrah evoked the sinew and muscle of “a sleek racehorse” combined with “classic blueberry”; the “modestly amber-colored wine” she drank in Georgia, made from mtsvane grapes, imparted the flavor of “preserved lemon with its salted rind, textural for sure, and thirst quenching.” Besides wine, Feiring reflects on family—her stubborn mother, philandering father, and beloved brother and confidant—and various boyfriends, one of whom, unfortunately, did not drink at all. “Wine is the place where history, science, and civilization meet,” she writes, “and drinking the right glass of wine does have the power to nourish love.”

An enjoyable quaff for wine lovers.