AN ODD VOLUME OF COOKERY

The Club of Odd Volumes"" adds this to the bibliophile's library- in a cookbook, interspersed with anecdotes, and highlighted with specialties of the club dining room. Not a basic cookbook in any sense, but one that will appeal to those who want good he-man food with a gourmet quality. Occasionally, the nomenclature will surprise the experts- or perhaps their recipe for bouillabaisse is deliberately designed as an approximation and short cut to the Marseilles variety, just as their recipe for Devonshire Cream is deliberately designed to approach the quality of the real thing. I found some good suggestions, offered with imagination and zest; and some specific instructions that most cookbooks bypass (as for instance, the how of making a rice ring, a spinach ring). A specialty cookbook, with a New England via Boston flavor.