Bread and cheese, a huge salad of dandelion with oil and vinegar dressing, and a bottle of creamy ale,"" hums Mr. Pellegrini at one point in this leisurely gardening/gourmet book. And amidst all the advice about preparing soil, sowing and harvesting vegetables and herbs, choosing and discriminating among the most agreeable, he takes time out to enjoy a sun-warm tomato with salt and hymns the ""firm upthrust of youth"" in lettuce leaves which tempts one to ""eat them in the manner of a blissful ruminant."" The author toils happily at his garden, amused by the practical admonitions of scoffers. And a gardener of the genial, unhurried sort might gather some tips about planting a small ""kitchen"" vegetable and herb garden. Author of Wine and the Good Life, Mr. Pelligrini offers a handful of pleasant Italian-flavored recipes at the close. More glow than hoe but fun.