FOOD FROM HARVEST FESTIVALS AND FOLK FAIRS

Ethnic festivals, harvest celebrations, and local fairs--40 of them are described here. All with one thing in common: good food in prodigious amounts. Borghese ranges happily from New York's Feast of San Gennaro, famous for its sausage sandwiches and calzone, to the Louisiana Jambalaya festival held in the bayou town of Gonzales. Other not-to-be-missed days include Michigan's cherry festival and Danish days in Solvang, California (a town originally settled exclusively by Danes). Borghese has brought back representative recipes from all her stops and they run the gamut from Ukrainian stuffed cabbage to the winning recipe (Hot Pants Chili) in Texas' infamous chili cook-off. Quantities have been scaled down and none of the food will taste exactly right away from its home setting but Borghese has made a noble effort to publicize everybody's soul food. Pass the Aebleskiver.