Seldis promises to go easy on butter, eggs and sugar but her concoctions all tend to be rich, heavy, gooey. All the classics are here (Amaretti, Zabaglione, Baba al rhum, Cannoli, Pannetone, Cassata) plus quite a few originals that reflect the author's exceptional love and expertise in this area. Modern Americans will find most of those pastries, cakes, pies, custards expendable, but the ""semi-freddo"" ices are particularly simple and appealing. Included is a good survey of Italian dessert wines with recommendations for their service. An indulgent celebration of the sweet tooth, definitely not for weight watchers or other dietary ascetics.