This is the cookbook for those who have only a travel-brochure familiarity with Greek culture and culinary habits. The appetizers--like small phyllo pastries and fish roe pate--are the most distinctly Greek part of the meal, and Theoharous is adept at describing the many small delicacies that give Greek food and dining its special character: the several varieties of olives, the chooses (there are others besides feta), the pastempa or bowls of salted, roast seeds that are obligatory with drinks. Americans will have to learn to like organ meats, and, though Theoharous has de-emphasized lamb, it is still the most popular meat. Lemon and olive oil flavors permeate almost every dish from artichokes to fish. The recipes--except for a few holiday backbreakers--are eminently simple and Theoharous is a chatty, enthusiastic guide.