After the happy slapdasherie of Hawkins' Who Needs a Cookbook? (1968), count-down cooking -- ingredients on the left, metered process on the right -- is a surprise. But if you fumble after a hard day's work, these are still fairly quick, non-gimmicky main dishes of (not necessarily thrifty) meats and seafoods dressed up Continental fashion. There are also dishes made with hamburg, innards and eggs. Reliable one-dish fare with salad and sauce instructions included, along with a few author quips and cranks.