SALAD FOR ALL SEASONS by Barbara Gibbons

SALAD FOR ALL SEASONS

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KIRKUS REVIEW

Gibbons, whose ""Slim Gourmet"" column appears in Family Circle and several newspapers, applies the thin theme here in calorie counts for each recipe, dressings with less than the usual oil or none at all, less rich versions of standard dishes (a ratatouille using only one tablespoon of oil, a hummus without tahini)--plus the low-calorie ingredients, such as vegetables, that you normally expect in salads. There are also several baked fish entrees, along with soups and sandwiches (and a chicken pilaf), that don't really belong under the salad umbrella. Writing for those who are attracted to recipe titles with words like ""presto,"" ""restaurant-style,"" and ""quickie,"" and partial to such ingredients as ""instant minced onion"" and ""packaged coleslaw mix"" (as a substitute for fresh-shredded cabbage), Gibbons also defends iceberg lettuce from ""food snobs"" who overlook its ""genuine culinary advantages"" simply because of its ""common"" virtues of ""affordability, availability, durability, and practicality."" (Never mind the loss in taste and nutrients.) Yet, disregarding affordability, she recommends a whole head of Bibb lettuce as an ""elegant single serving salad."" Those who value taste over the convenience of canned and frozen vegetables, canned tomato juice (a Gibbons standby), and pre-calculated calories should look up Kay Shaw Nelson's Complete International Salad Cookbook (1978).

Pub Date: June 1st, 1982
Publisher: Macmillan