Any city serenade which begins Savannah ""is so very much a woman, infinitely old, tenderly young, mysterious,"" etc., lets the reader know at the outset that he will not be traveling with Evelyn Waugh. Thus it is not a surprise to encounter ""No visit to Savannah is complete without. . . ."" But in spite of the chestnut stuffing, there's enough solid fact to keep one supplied for a weekend tour. The author makes an earnest attempt to vary views of historical and architectural landmarks with glimpses, from contemporary sources, of the city during the Revolution and ""The War""; tales of ghosts; and portraits of dueling fools, rakes, and founding fathers. As for the present, there are bland reports on measures to confront urban blight and water pollution, a portrait of lovely Skidaway Island (soon to be a ""posh"" resort), and suggestions for dining and sightseeing. Not as spacious as a Savannah portico, but for the very casual visitor, 'twill serve.