The Chantraine is Belgium's oldest restaurant, in Brussels, and it has been in the hands of the family Chantraine for the past fifty years. They are responsible for these ""90 Creations Culinaires Exclusives"" which now are available to the more ambitious imitator. While M. Chantraine claims that some of them are not elaborate and can be handled by anyone, there are few that do not demand time and money. Wines and herbs abound and sauces smother, but the directions are precise and there is a good demonstration of the basics to have at hand. A literal chef's oeuvre.