A browsable gift item for Thorn Birds fans, Australia buffs, or the odd aficionado of such old-fashioned British fare as oxtail or barley-mutton soup, Cornish pastries, and ""jam roly-poly."" (This last is cooked in a ""lady's cotton stocking."") There are also a number of meat pies of the steak-and-kidney order--these, the authors tell us, are ""absolutely dinky-di Australian""--and, in that connection, a surprising array of puff and flaky pastries. And if there is ""no such thing as Australian cuisine,"" there is room for an anarchy of imports, from Tahitian fish with coconut milk to saltimbocca alla romana. It's an old-fashioned sort of cookbook, with general directions you know you can trust extending for pages at a time between recipes. (These authors know not only their onions, but their meat and potatoes as well--though their understanding of nutrition is a bit fuzzy.) A number of ingredients that might puzzle Americans are translated in parentheses--which, however, don't always clear things up. (What is the ""gravy browning"" suggested as a substitute for ""Parisian essence""? And what is sambal oelek, which is left unexplained?) Never mind--it will all be part of the charm for those who are taken with the McCullough name and all those photos and drawings of Australia.