COOKING WITH DAVID BURKE OF THE PARK AVENUE CAFE

Burke, executive chef at New York City's chi-chi Park Avenue Cafe, and cookbook author Reingold have done a superb job of translating Burke's original vision into book form. But only someone who becomes immersed in this chef's way of doing things will have total success with these recipes. Tuna in Mustard-Seed Crust with Shrimp and Tomato Vinaigrette was delicious with its contrasting spicy and sweet flavors, but it took a long time to prepare, not counting the Tomato Fondue and Ginger Oil that need to be made ahead (most recipes include other preparations in the book, like stocks or purÇes). Though instructions are broken down carefully, ingredient lists are fairly costly and long. Not inaccurately, chapters are labeled ``Building a Dish with Fish and Shellfish,'' etc. There is no such thing as a simple entrÇe here, only complete dishes with all the trimmings, like Beer Batter Onion Rings and Carrot Chips. A chapter called ``Starters and Small Meals'' has a lot of intriguing options, like black olive pastry puffs that are filled with goat cheese, lobster, blue cheese, or smoked salmon fillings. These are a treat but certainly not to be whipped up at a moment's notice. An amusing introduction follows Burke's progress from restaurant to restaurant, including an early stint as a prep cook at New Jersey's Lakeside Manor, where it was his duty to fry everything in a breadcrumb crust. Outstanding food, inventive combinations, difficult preparations—but isn't that what we go to restaurants for? (50 line drawings and 8 pages color photos, not seen)