Nooks and crannies in the Big Apple? Say rather neighborhoods and local landmarks. This discursive walking-tour guide is a book for the night before, not the day of rubber-necking; and while it may now and then tell you to ""turn eastward,"" it's function is less to lay out a route than to stimulate a stroll. It will tell you where the Lower East Side has gone (to Orchard Street, which still has ""the flavor of a Jacob Riis photograph""); what's going on in Soho (""ideas,"" eats, galleries en masse); and, off the standard tourist path, how to savor Fashion (Seventh) Avenue. And even the native may be unaware of Broad Channel--an outpost of rickety, conservative individualism beyond the beyond in Queens--or the contrasting pleasures of raucous Fordham Road and sylvan Fordham University. Individual attractions are cited as they come up, but there's also a supplemental list of promising places for independent touring--from the Grolier Club, for bibliophiles, to Claremont Riding Academy, for intrepid equestrians, to Cemetery Belt . . . not as a last resort but for ""an unusual fourmile drive."" Yeadon is loquacious but imaginative.