Diana Kennedy's indefatigable researches verify that the lackluster taco/enchilada combination plate is as representative of...

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THE CUISINES OF MEXICO

Diana Kennedy's indefatigable researches verify that the lackluster taco/enchilada combination plate is as representative of Mexican cooking as MacDonald's pommes frites are of haute cuisine. Exotic varieties of quesadillas (tortilla turnovers stuffed with corn fungus or pumpkin blossoms or brains), Yucatecan specialties such as bola de queso relleno (stuffed Dutch cheese) and lime soup, as well as lower profile recipes for fish in coriander or caper sauces and an Oaxacan pot roast with almonds and bacon are summoned up with nostalgia as unique aesthetic experiences -- bound to tempt gourmets into untried territory. The preparation is as formidable as you might expect. Under Diana Kennedy's close supervision the search for specialized ingredients becomes an exercise in detection, and, not surprisingly, American supermarket fare fails to meet her perfectionist standards (commercial brands of lard are ""death white and tasteless"" -- render your own). Similarly her careful instruction in cooking methods allows for few shortcuts; homemade tortillas require lengthy practice and there's a definite technique to blending spices so that the flavors ""explode."" Even familiar items take on a new look here (ten types of tamales and a masterful mole poblano de guajolote) -- and notes on utensils, suggested menus, those all important sources of ingredients and a veritable treatise on chiles are included. With Craig Claiborne's assurance that this will rank as the ""definitive book in English on that most edible art,"" this should become the standard guide to Mexican food for cooks who share Ms. Kennedy's uncompromising criteria of quality and authenticity.

Pub Date: Oct. 25, 1972

ISBN: N/A

Page Count: -

Publisher: Harper & Row

Review Posted Online: N/A

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Oct. 1, 1972

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