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A DEATH IN THE RAINFOREST by Don Kulick

A DEATH IN THE RAINFOREST

How a Language and a Way of Life Came to an End in Papua New Guinea

by Don Kulick

Pub Date: June 18th, 2019
ISBN: 978-1-61620-904-9
Publisher: Algonquin

How a culture withers and its language is rendered mute.

Kulick (Anthropology/Uppsala Univ.; Travesti: Sex, Gender, and Culture Among Brazilian Transgendered Prostitutes, 1998, etc.) wears his scholar’s hat casually in this deeply personal, engaging inquiry into a “tiny windless slit in the rainforest [of Papua New Guinea]…surrounded on all sides by massive trees rooted in a vast, seemingly boundless swamp.” A small village of roughly 100 people, Gapun has its own unique language, Tayap. The author renders his academic research in a light, almost novelistic style, with plenty of drama and heartache. He invokes anthropologist Margaret Mead’s conviction that we should “learn from difference.” From 1985 to 2014, Kulick lived in the village seven times, once for 15 months. The villagers called him Saraki and thought him a dead person, a white ghost, a “harbinger of the change they want so badly.” He immersed himself in their lives and culture and learned their unique language, later writing a grammar. The linguistic part of the book may be a bit much for some, but Kulick does a fine job describing the language’s origins, how he learned it, and how it differs from the country’s national language, Tok Pisin. The author discusses their cuisine, especially their main staple, sago, a raw form of flour, maggot stew, and chewed betel leaves; how they educate and raise their children, never hitting them; their sex practices; and creative swearing, which is mostly done by women. Kulick also recounts a harrowing episode when gunmen from outside tried to rob him and a villager was killed. He understands that they want to change, but he wonders, at what cost? Few now speak their precious and irreplaceable language: The “mighty tree that once was Tayap has been whittled down to a skinny toothpick.”

A sad and uplifting, ultimately poignant exploration of a tiny world within a bigger, harsher, and crushing world.