GLORIOUS STEW

A rich collection of staple-to-exotic recipes for the experienced cook. In spite of the explicit directions, these are dishes requiring sensitive handling. Mixing flour into a hot pan in which meat either has been or is sizzling is an occupation that separates the women from the girls. However these are tantalizing dishes--from a wild Transylvanian pork goulash to something served in a cooked pumpkin. And of course there are the familiar boeufs thisa and thata, as well as recipes for fish stews and stew accompaniments. Old-timers may balk at Miss Ivens' habit of including seasonings from the earliest oven time, but this prime collection may be used as a base for experimentation which the author encourages. A lavish use of wine (discussed in a separate section) and a gung ho attitude as to expense of ingredients, make this best for hostessing or special family fare. Serve with elan.