Easy, elegant, uncontrived--and naturally in line with today's dietary guidelines: such are the virtues of the Japanese way with seafood. With just a few special ingredients (chief among them sake, kelp, mirin, and miso) and, in most cases, very little effort, Andoh's readers can acquire an impressive repertoire of poached, salt-grilled, deep-fried, air-dried, and ""sea-steamed"" entrÃ‰es. Among the choices are an array of sushi and sashimi dishes, along with the vinegared rice that Andoh declares essential for sushi; a presentation of twice-fried mashed shrimp ""pine cones"" studded with pine nuts; a number of ""striped,"" ""two-toned,"" ""tri-color,"" and other visually snazzy arrangements; and several simple marinades that can lend an interesting Japanese accent to ordinary Friday fare. As in her American Taste of Japan (1985) and At Home with Japanese Cooking (1980), Andoh maintains the essence of classic Japanese cuisine without making a fetish of tradition. Here, for example, she makes occasional use of the microwave and applies venerable Japanese technique to the American catfish. A welcome collection for rushed but uncompromising American cooks.