A devoted audience of her listeners and her readers will doubtless welcome this journey through Portugal with the irrepressible Emily, her old friend Sophie, and some new companions and kindred spirits. More concentrated on one country than- for instance- Water, Water Everywhere which progressed from Greece to Yugoslavia and finally to England, this is really a closeup of Portugal. And for those prospective travelers who are giving that lovely country enough time for the odd corners and the byways Emily and her ""busload"" (a Volkswagon bus -- not a public conveyance) explored, here are hints on how to go (or how not to go), where to stay, what to see, and so on. But at best it is an erratic pilgrimage, and the interest probably rests more on the eccentricities of the fellow travelers than on their reactions to what they saw. And for this reader's part, the ""cuteness"" begins to wear a bit thin.