These rambling essays describe a passionate affair with an island...Manhattan is at least one man's paradise -- soot, crime, traffic jams and all."" So says the editor of Cue magazine as he starts the reader on a foot tour of New York City, to some of its outstanding restaurants, museums, men's clubs and theaters. Mr. Lewis is strong on local history, and in the course of his long walk around the island's neighborhoods, his gossipy anecdotes of people and events turn the out-of-towner into a native who knows all the landmarks, houses and greats of a given area. Greenwich Village, from its beateries and eateries to its niteries gets a trouncing in the name of nostalgia for the better, older times. This is followed by an unusual and interesting chapter on all the Ferry lines that serve the city. To complete this valentine to a city, Mr. Lewis has an essay on bringing up children in New York (a very active, footslogging approach) that is a valid and ringing call to the middle classes who are being swallowed by (or are swallowing) suburbia, ""for the sake of the kids"". This is a fine stroll over Kate Simon's territory (New York: Places and Pleasures). Mr. Lewis' book is stronger on the historical and recent past. It is no replacement for the Simon book, but makes it a fine companion.