ENOLA PRUDHOMME'S LOW-CALORIE CAJUN COOKING

Low-fat collage cheese in Cajun dishes is certainly a novelty; and that, besides the family name, is mainly what this Louisiana restaurant owner, sister of the famous Paul, and contributor to The Prudhomme family cookbook (1987) has going for her here. The Cajun accent survives (witness the catfish au gratin and shrimp Çtouffee, even pork in wine sauce) but health- style substitutes abound (in blackened chicken breast, turkey sausage) and serious fat-reducing measures are taken: Enola's roux is browned flour, nothing more, and her southern-style ``oven-fried'' chicken is stripped of skin and fat, breaded without eggs, and never fried. The worst of both worlds meet in her candied-yam recipe, which calls for brown sugar substitute, imitation butter flavoring, instant vanilla, and ten miniature marshmallows. Other tacky ingredients such as canned cream-of- mushroom soup turn up here and there, adding to the mongrel air.