For the man in your life, here is the cookbook to put him into the kitchen (that is, if you want him there). It makes cooking -- on a gourmet level- sound like a new adventure. And yet, with this goal in sight, the editors of Esquire have been successful in keeping the initial chapters at beginning level. They assume nothing in the way of background knowledge. They supply measurement tables and equivalents that would grace any good cookbook. They explain how much to buy for how many portions. They go into fine points of variety in flavor, color, texture, shape and the patterns of menus. They list the equipment for a commendable kitchen (most women would drool over its completeness); they go into preparation and planning and distributing of time, schedule of cooking. The glossary of terms is the most complete I've seen out of a dictionary or encyclopedia devoted to the subject. Then with primary, secondary and high school groundwork behind them, the gentlemen in the kitchen get down to business. The recipes go from Openers (appetizers and soups) through fish, poultry, meats, sauces, game, vegetables, salads, breads, desserts, cheeses, beverages -- to snacks, handling of leftovers, egg cookery, the resource in cans, and charcoal cooking. And nothing is left to chance- from purchase of the best- to flavoring, serving, and enjoying. A super-job- for the man who likes good food and has interest in achieving it. A more advanced book than the excellent and still in print- For Men Only by Abdullah and Kenny, published some years ago by Putnam.