A collection of recipes purports to be for those ""low in servants...space"" but who are dedicated gastronomes and the dishes are inviting enough to turn a gourmet into a gourmand. Many of them however do demand time and patience, some are quite fussy, but all seem to be fitted to an average-plus cook. It is to be hoped that there will be careful indexing for there is no compartmentizing of types of food or menus, or cooking. The arrangement is by source- specialties from her Victorian grandparents, from her mother in St. Louis, the Hotel Sachar in Vienna, the Cafe de Paris, Venice, Virginia, Arabia, Russia, and her own kitchen on 57th Street. Everything from appetizers to desserts turns up; there are comments and suggestions for other foods and wine that go well with a main course; substitutions for hard-to-get ingredients are noted; there are enough novelties, and different preparation of standard fare, to make this a stimulant for adding variety to meal times; there is a section on sauces. Not a basic cookbook but a pleasant addition as a kitchen aid.