THE CUISINE OF FREDY GIRARDET

The newest entry in the Morrow chefs' series, and far more worthwhile than its most recent predecessor, Michel GuÉrard's Cusine for Home Cooks (1983, p. 1310). Swiss superstar Girardet does not go in for faddish combos or theatrical effects, but for a sort of lucid simplicity--a pleasing restraint and harmony. Most dishes are discreetly flavored with a few well-judged seasonings, and rich creamy preparations tend to be the most simply seasoned of all. Seafood receives a surprising emphasis, with many deft and delicate combinations like mussel and carrot soup with dill, salmon fillets en papillote with a butter-finished lime sauce, and langoustines (rendered by the translators as ""lobsterettes"") wrapped in cabbage leaves and topped with caviar. There is quite a bit of game and small poultry (squab, quail, guinea hen); vegetables include such pleasant ideas as creamed parsley or braised black radishes in a rich port sauce. Desserts cover a wide range from exotic chic (passionfruit soufflÉ) to old-fashioned luxury (strawberry napoleons, Black Forest cake) and elegant plainness (a simple tea cake). The recipes are simply and logically written but tend to contain formidable challenges that unwise enthusiasts may not always spot before plunging in; many, though by no means all, also include dauntingly expensive or hard-to-find ingredients (truffles, foie gras, wild mushrooms). Still, advanced cooks used to similar works will find a fair degree of unobtrusive guidance--and today's urban sophisticates, at least, are accustomed to such shopping lists.