SUPPERS AND MIDNIGHT SNACKS

For the experienced cook only, warns the author (""I address myself to all you 'naturals,'...confident that you will know how to behave,"") of this witty and wildly imaginative cookbook of menus, with key recipes for the gourmet cook. If lamb with radishes or anchovy souffle turns you off, try an easy lobster crepe (which may be reheated) or quick eggplant with sour cream and red caviar. Menu titles include quantities and vary from ""Break the Bank Supper for Eight"" to ""A Moveable Feast for Too Many Children"" (...""the John Birch Society of gourmets""). Fun and posh-practical.