Fish as it is cooked at the Boston area's popular, unpretentious Legal Seafood chain: simply, agreeably, and economically. Recipes range from plain steamed cod with vegetables, baked scrod, or sautÃ‰ed codfish cakes to the somewhat fancier squid stuffed with scallops and red pepper or two-toned fettucini with seafood and saffron. Though not a bargain if judged by recipe count, this would make a good, unintimidating guide for beginners, as the authors offer a page or so of tips and information on each cooking and preparation method (baking, poaching, filleting, shucking--even eating a lobster) and each type of catch (salmon, wolfish, mussels, and so on). There are also suggested substitutes for regional species, though inland cooks without access to fresh seafood might find the whole collection more tantalizing than useful. Those who can apply it will likely agree that 50,000 diners a week can't be wrong.