Inevitably, Jewish sons are mama's boys. Georges Spunt, no exception, makes his mother the heroine of this memoir of his childhood in Shanghai as the youngest son of the city's wealthiest foreign cotton merchant. Spunt's father, who made the family fortune, appears here along with the other sons, success-prone Aristide and the rather stuffy Sascha. But clearly the star is Mama, a Russian-born Jewess who charmed her husband, her sons, and at least one Italian prince. The story takes place between the two great wars when events in Shanghai and neighboring China often were stormy. Occasionally, they affected the operations of the Spunt household; more important here, however, are the domestic crises Mama threw crockery, her husband had shredded loveletters (from the prince) served for dessert. The entire family had style, and the money to indulge it. Georges, the only Spunt still living, dedicates his book to the family, ""Wherever you are,"" and Jewish mothers everywhere will enjoy it. To be sure, it's full of zaftig sentiment but okay.