Although this enchanting review of an obscure if essential gracenote to the practical arts of decorative dining and cuisine is subtitled ""Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow,"" the yesterday seems more operative. But no matter. The illustrations, fifteen in full color, are fine and the text illuminating. With Victorian ""March stands"" to contemplate (warily); a chinoiserie epergne from the eighteenth century, a serene fruit arrangement from a seventeenth century Chinese woodcut, to ponder--one can never again be quite satisfied with a Dansk display all the time. There are of course some contemporary arrangements, appointments, but it is the author's resurrection of past glories that will stimulate and instruct scholars and collectors alike.