What Julia did for the French the Sales have just done for the Etruscans. Etruscans? Adapting that ancient technique of cooking and using those marvelous unglazed pots that we've all been giving one another for presents the last several years (then sticking on the shelf after exhausting the novelty of baking apples or beans because there have been no other recipes), the authors -- a San Francisco couple -- have developed one hundred dishes for fowl, lamb, beef, fish, casseroles, desserts, even bread (the closest thing yet to a French loaf). Nothing's more delectable -- not to mention lower in calories -- than foods which have been simmered in their own juices, and nothing's more convenient for a cook than the pot that watches itself. The only requirements are that the clay be soaked for fifteen minutes before using, then set in a cold oven with the temperature turned high (most often around 450). A cookbook that's sure to take off -- and start a trend.