Cruising with Caen: Market Street, Grant, Telegraph, Chinatown, the Zoo. . . . Lunch with Marshall McLuhan in a North Beach topless joint. . . Getting smashed at Janis Joplin's postmortem bash in San Anselmo. . . Elbow-bending at Enrico's with Blair Fuller, Mel Torme, Evan Connell, Herb Gold and Richard Brautigan. . . Hitching a lift on Kesey's psychedelic bus. . . Observing the sartorial habits of the Hearst dynasty. . . Compare-and-contrasting the over-fifties with the epicene influx of got-any-spare-changers. . . Nostalgia for the Belle Epoque and good times gone by. . . Saroyan, Hammett, Steinbeck. . . A meeting with Winchell 30 years ago: ""'This kid,' said Winchell grinning, 'imitates me better than any other kid in the business.'"" But as an institution, Caen has outlasted Winchell and most of the others and his free-and-easy columns in the Chronicle continue to be one of the special blessings of San Francisco which make up for all that fog.