Once again the French predilection for making delicacies from the innards, the head and the feet of pig or calf may be a little off-putting to Americans accustomed to cooking roasts or choice cuts of steak, but those adventurous enough to try rolled head cheese with pistachios, sweetbreads in Madeira or veal brains in black butter, probably won't regret it. Pepin is a meticulous, deliberate chef and nothing here can be whipped up in a jiffy after work and before the seven o'clock news. He is inordinately fond of en brioche and en croute and anything from shad to ham may turn up in a pastry crust. Cognac, Madeira, white and red wine are used law ishly in most of these recipes and you may find that even without the mushrooms and heavy cream and lobster, Pepin's ""at home"" cookery will deplete your bank account while larding your waistline. But a fantasy food like cold peach soup--made with white wine and blueberries and cream--should make your reputation with dinner guests for a long time to come.