If pictures were words, this would be a handsome tribute indeed to Scottish gastronomy: mighty copper saucepans, exquisitely stamped shortbreads, salmon-filled streams, and Dunlop cheeses. However, the lavish photographs (both black-and-white and color) and delightful old engravings are interspersed with recipes, and if some of these are to be believed, the present state of Scottish gastronomy leaves something to be desired. Oatmeal scones made with margarine, indeed! Avocados stuffed with a mixture including ""8 oz. Philadelphia cheese""! Much of this is armchair-tourist fare, complete with puffs for local inns. Good cooks accustomed to coping with British directions (this is one of those uneasy British-American editions) may find enough wheat to justify the chaff; from Scotch eggs and kail brose (kale and oatmeal soup, of a thin-porridge consistency) to a good robust hotch-potch. But there is no excuse for the scads of recipes dedicated to the greater glory of the Drambuie Liqueur Company, whose ""generous help"" is prominently acknowledged at the outset and whose product turns up in crab crepes, salmon souffle, braised pheasant, and--in conjunction with yogurt--baked trout. A pretty gift, but a mighty slender culinary reed.