With her usual precision and discrimination, Jean Hewitt has compiled an attractive, representative collection of Southern recipes. State favorites with local ingredients are featured, frequently refined to a few numbered steps using traditional seasonings and standard equipment. Most of the entrees include seafood, pork, or chicken: Louisiana shrimp creole, Mississippi catfish, Maryland soft shell crabs, Florida snapper, Virginia ham, Tennessee fried chicken. In addition there are recipes for soups (shrimp bisque, black bean soup), breads (buttermilk, corn flour), desserts, relishes, and sauces. Brief comments appear irregularly, characterizing particular specialities: the ""earthy"" flavor of crayfish, the ""admirable texture"" of stone crabs, the okra base of gumbos, the occasional toughness of collard greens. An excellent reference.