Without trying to glorify backyard fare, Voltz finds some good things to park on your grill in addition to the expectable spareribs, chicken, and London broil--and some good slathering sauces in addition to the usual sweet-and-sour combinations of bottled condiments. Among the more interesting offerings are grilled chicken giblets, Armenian-style kofta kebabs, sea bass or other fish grilled over grapevine cuttings, and onion halves stuffed with ground beef. There are also versions of such kettle feasts as Brunswick stew (minus the squirrel), Georgia chicken pilau (""perloo""), and Kentucky burgoo. Subsidiary fixings are if anything more inviting than the main events, and include onion ""steaks"" (thick onion slices soaked in milk, coated with flour, and fried in a skillet over the grill), cheese grits with garlic, baba ghanoush made with real charcoal-roasted eggplants, and a one-dish ""green corn tamale""; there is a handful of desserts, mostly simple but unusual summer fruit preparations on the order of peach and blackberry compote. Recipes are briefly and simply written, without fussbudget instructions. The background introduction to gadgets, fuels, and techniques is intelligent but leaves out the brand-name detail some consumers may crave. Not an exhaustive manual, but a level-headed aid.