Jill Pinkwater is not one of those kids' cookbook authors who throws some wheat germ in with the sugar and calls it natural food. Nor does she short-change young cooks with the usual handful of recipes; there really are 151 good things to eat here, and that's all the more impressive in a collection that's limited to snack food and hasn't a gimmick or a grain of sugar or chocolate in it. Then too, instead of appending a token government chart on food values, she really explains what all the different nutrients do and includes notes on label reading, additives and dieting along with more than the usual preliminaries on measuring, cooking terms and equipment. Nutritional, procedural and historical commentary is scattered throughout, and the directions are extensive--not because the dishes are that complicated but because the author takes care to make them failsafe. Sounds imposing? But it's all done in a conversational, non-didactic tone. And if you still suspect that all the attention to what's good for you might overwhelm considerations of what's good to eat, just try Mrs. DePalma's old Italian ""ficagio"" pizza. . . or the Chinese almond pudding. . . raisin bread with honey and yogurt. . . peanut butter bread. . . open peach pie. . . . It must have been Mrs. Pinkwater testing these and the other snacks included here that inspired the beatific kitchen scene in her husband's Blue Moose (p. 661, J-229).