The story of how we got lend lease supplies to Russia -- 4(apple) million tons of it -- through Iran. The average citizen knows little of the bitching, damning outfit under General Donald H. Connally, and the way they built roads and laid tracks and fought the elements to get supplies through, in the dark days of Stalingrad and on up to the opening of the Dardanelles late in '44. This is a wartime ""I've been working on the railroads"" yarn, a story of book break and heart break as they streamlined transportation in a land where people live still in the 10th century. Teheran was to these men a place of escape, romance, beauty, strip tease, filth, sickness, heat, sin and laughter. The narrator catches the spirit of these ""engineering, railroading, trucking, stevedoring, communication professionals. This is an on-the-spot record, much of which appeared in The New Yorker. Not for all readers; he-man stuff.