Wildman, junior member of the New York wine-import firm of Wildman & Sons, suggests a comprehensive, happily unfinicky junket of the principal French wine regions -- a 21-day excursion beginning with Champagne and Alsace in the north, then southeastward through the Burgundy-Beaujolais country and the Cotes du Rhone, on to the great winelands of Bordeaux and Cognac, and finally north through the Loire Valley, ending up in Paris ready for a crowning grand cru at Maxim's. En route Wildman comments on each district's history, chateau lore, quality and types of wines, production figures, etc., and provides hotel and restaurant recommendations (with addresses and telephone numbers) and Michelin road maps to get you there. There's also some unaffected advice about tasting techniques, label reading, and storage and serving, along with a 12-year vintage chart (1959-71) modeled after, but much less rigorous than, Schoonmaker's (viz. his Encyclopedia of Wine, now in its 4th ed., 1969). Evolved from a series of Gourmet magazine articles, A Wine Tour of France lacks the elegance and uniform balance of, say, Alex Waugh's Wine and Spirits (Time-Life ""Foods of the World"" series, 1968), and the failure to include photographs is as egregious as chilling a vintage red. Like the white Rhones of '68, ""Passable, but not outstanding.