Soaring prices and the scarcity of cordon bleu chefs may be diminishing the number of epicurean establishments where you can drop $50 on dinner for two; on the other hand, more and more people are becoming familiar with a large repertoire of regional specialties, dishes that have developed over centuries to which one may add or subtract ingredients according to what's available locally and seasonally. You'll find no mousse or pate or truffles in Bartlett's marvelous collection of (for the most part) one-dish meals. You will find fish stews from New England, Spain or Provence, Belgian carbonnade flamonde (a thick beef stew made with beer or stout), English beef and kidney pie, Sicilian eggplant, Cuban arroz con pollo, Hungarian goulash and German sauerbraten. All the recipes are designed for generous, nay, lavish portions, and Bartlett knows all the peasants' secrets--slow simmering, using salt pork or slab bacon to impart extra flavor to chowders and chicken dishes, cooking with wines you wouldn't be ashamed to serve on your table. Of course many of these recipes can be found elsewhere--usually in more complicated versions--but rarely have they been assembled with so much flexibility and good sense.